Braising and Stewing as Cooking Techniques

Now that the holidays are over, we at the shop are all moving a bit more slowly. Still in recovery mode I suppose, after a lengthy month of planning for the busiest couple of weeks of our year. Moving slowly translates well to the kitchen this time of year (WINTER), when stews and braises move to the front of our menus at home. When it is cold, grey, icy, and wet outside, braising can warm you through and through.

Question: What is braising?

Answer: Braising is searing and then simmering a piece of meat in flavoured liquid until it is tender.

Question #2: How does it differentiate from a stew?

Answer #2: Quite simply put, you braise a big piece of meat, and you stew little bits of meat.  Really, that’s about it.

Question #3: Why do we need to differentiate between the two?

Answer #3:  Well, I guess we don’t really, except its kind of like saying a sunflower and a daisy are the same thing.  They aren’t.

I love a stew.  A properly made bœuf bourguignon is probably one of the most delicious things ever.  But there is something a little magical about taking a big, hard, tough, rugged muscle and turning it into a luxurious, soft, fork-tender pillow of protein.  You know that feeling you get when watching an old movie at Christmastime?  You know what I mean – that warm, reflective, teary type of movie that reminds you about what it was like to believe in Santa?  That’s how a well-made braise makes me feel.   It takes a long time to make, but once you open the oven and remove the pot lid it’s like revealing a bit of heaven. 

Now for some quick facts:

Common Braising Cuts:

Beef:     Boneless Blade (Best for pot roasts)
Chuck Short Ribs
Brisket
Shank
Oxtail
Cheek
Tongue

Pork:     Anything from the shoulder – Butt or Picnic
Back Ribs
Side Ribs
Belly
Shank
Cheek

Chicken: Legs

Lamb:    Shank
Ribs
Boneless Shoulder
Neck

 One thing all of these cuts have in common is that they are the hardest working muscles on each animal’s body.  Shoulders especially, as they not only have to share the load of the animal’s back with its hind quarter, but the shoulder also has a big heavy neck and head to carry around.  A lot of work that is, so the muscles are pretty tough cookies.  You can’t just go and grill these cuts, as you’ll just be chewing for decades.  These cuts need Tender Loving Care.

Braising in Five Easy Steps:

1. Choose a cut of meat from the list above, season it with salt and pepper, and brown it all over in a deep-sided pot.  (I like using equal parts of butter and vegetable oil to do my browning).  Remove the browned meat from pot and put it aside for a second.
2. Slowly caramelize flavourful vegetables IN THE SAME POT.  Flavourful vegetables can be (but don’t have to be): onion, garlic, carrot, celery, parsnip, turnip, peppers, or anything else you like that has a sweetness to it.  Starchy vegetables like potatoes don’t really do much here.
3. Deglaze the pot with a bit of flavourful liquid.  After you have caramelized the flavourful vegetables you will notice there is brown bits at the bottom of the pot.  If you add a liquid this will come off and add to the overall flavour of your braise.  Liquids I like to use are: red wine, white wine, vinegar, beer, orange juice, etc.  You can use whatever you like.  The point is the liquid you deglaze a pot with will add to the flavour of the whole braise, so it’s best to use a strong, flavourful liquid here.
4. Add your flavour enhancers.  Fancy talk for herbs and spices.  Anything goes here, from bay leaves, thyme and peppercorns (classic French) to lemongrass, ginger and star anise.
5. Put your meat back in the pot, and then almost cover it with more liquid.   The liquid used here is more neutral, perhaps chicken, beef or vegetable stock.  Or just water.  No one will judge you if you use water.  Besides, if you have a nice amount of flavourful vegetables, wine, enhancers AND meat you’re basically making a broth if you add water anyways!  When braising it is important to barely cover the meat with the liquid.  This will keep the meat moist while cooking without making a big pot of soup.
6. Bring the liquid to a simmer, then put a lid on it and put it in an oven that has been pre-heated to 325˚F.  Check it once and a while until it is fork-tender.  This basically means what you think it does – if you can easily stick a fork in the meat and it gives no struggle on its way out, it’s done.  Depending on the cut you choose, this can take anywhere from two hours to four.
7. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!! Let the braised meat cool a bit in the liquid before taking it out and slicing it.  If you take the meat directly out of the pot that came out of the oven, then sliced it, any moisture you worked so hard to keep in the meat will be lost in a puff of steam.  Wait at least thirty minutes.  Better to wait a few hours to let the meat cool before slicing and presenting it on a platter; thicken the braising liquid and have it stream over the meat like a nice sauce should.

I dare anyone who “hates” winter to deny themselves the most pleasurable of all winter’s pleasures.  Hey, a cold day can totally suck.  Anyone who has had to walk through the snowy streets with a hole in his/her boot can vouch for that.  Slush is a pain, especially on the stairs down to the subway.  Driving behind snow ploughs ranks pretty high on my “things I want to shoot myself in the foot before doing again” list. But just think of that delicious braise you made on Sunday; the one you just have to heat up after work that will fill your kitchen with the lovely smells kitchens are meant to smell like; the braised meat that could even defrost Mr. Freeze.  Think of that braise and I promise you winter won’t feel like the worst time of year.