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For many people, Father’s Day dinner includes a steak or three, usually cooked on a barbecue. To those of you indulging in this activity I ask, what’s the sauce? Most of the time a simple grilled steak sliced to share is more than enough, but I wanted to highlight a super-simple addition that is common in restaurants, but not always at home: Compound Butter.

Compound Butter is simply butter that has aromatics added to it. One of the most famous is called Maître d'Hôtel Butter, which is butter mixed with lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper. This is classically used on top of steak and fish and named after the Master of the Hotel (Maître d'Hôtel), who would prepare it tableside.

As much as I enjoy Maître d'Hôtel Butter, I find it a little muted for today’s tastes. I have come up with a compound butter with lots of fresh herbs and garlic – perfect for not only topping a steak, but also to serve with the bread and vegetables that will be hanging out on the side of the main attraction.

Compound Butter for Steak

Ingredients:

4 tbsp                   unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
1 tbsp                   chives, finely chopped
1 tbsp                   Italian parsley, finely chopped
1 tbsp                   tarragon, finely chopped
1 tbsp                   chervil, finely chopped
1 tbsp                   garlic, minced
1 tbsp                   shallot, finely diced
juice                     one lemon
to taste                salt and pepper

Method:

1. In a bowl, thoroughly mix all of the ingredients together.

2. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap out on your countertop. Spoon the butter into a small log and roll it up in the plastic. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. 

3. Slice the chilled butter into coins and store in a sealed container.  To serve, place a coin on top of hot steaks, chicken, fish, vegetables etc.

This dish highlights the perfect balance of savoury and tangy, with the fond (the bits of protein left in a pan after browning meat) becoming the base of a delicious and bright pan sauce.

Pork Chops with Sauce Charcutière

Serves four

Ingredients:

4                            pork rib chops (or center cut or boneless chops)
to taste                salt and pepper
2 tbsp                   olive oil
4 tbsp                   butter, divided
½ tsp                    sugar
1 tsp                     lemon juice
2 tsp                     dry mustard powder (or prepared Dijon mustard)
2                            shallots, finely diced
2 tbsp                   all purpose flour
1 cup                    white wine
4 cups                  beef or chicken stock
1                            bay leaf
4 sprigs                fresh thyme
¼ cup                    cornichons, chopped finely

Method:

1.      Pat the pork chops dry with paper towel. Season liberally with salt and pepper and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes (or up to 2 hours) on a plate in your fridge.

2.      In a pan over medium-high heat, our the oil and heat until it shimmers. Add the pork chops and cook until golden brown on both sides and just cooked through. This should take between 12 and 16 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chops. Lower the heat during the cooking if the meat is scorching before being cooked. At the 8 minute mark, add 2 tbsp of butter and continue cooking, spooning the hot frothy butter over the chops and basting every minute or so until done. Remove the chops form the pan and place on a plate to rest. Pour the butter over the chops, then return the pan to a medium heat.

3.      While the pork chops are cooking, whisk the sugar, lemon juice, and mustard together and reserve.

4.      Add the other 2 tbsp of butter to the pan and melt. Add the chopped shallots and sweat until translucent. Add the flour and stir well, creating a roux. The roux should be cooked for at least 4 minutes and will be golden brown when finished.

5.      While the roux is cooking, bring the white wine to a simmer in a separate pot over a medium heat. Once the roux is cooked, add the hot white wine to the pan a ladle at a time (this will help incorporate the wine smoothly into the sauce). Stir the roux and wine mixture well to emulsify and simmer until reduced by half.

6.      While the wine is reducing, ad the stock to the pot you had the wine in and bring that to a simmer over a medium heat. Once the wine and roux mixture has reduced, add the hot stock to the pan, stirring well to incorporate. Use a whisk to remove any lumps. Add the bay leaf and thyme and reduce until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon – about 15 minutes.

Strain the sauce into a clean saucepan and whisk in the sugar/lemon juice/mustard mixture. Add the pork chops back to the strained sauce and simmer to reheat. Once the chops are hot, remove them from the sauce and place on a platter (or individual plates). Add the cornichons to the sauce, stir well, and serve either on the side of the chops or poured over. Enjoy!

If you read these newsletters, you may have noticed a theme this week. We are celebrating picnic season, and there are few better items to enjoy outdoors than a sausage roll! Flaky pastry surrounding spiced and savoury minced pork, sausage rolls are excellent hot or cold. This is a very simple recipe that you can do before you head outdoors this weekend.

Sausage Rolls

Makes between 6 and 8 Rolls

Ingredients:

2             sheets of frozen puff pastry (these can be found in the freezer section of a grocery store)
4             pork sausages (the flavour is up to you, but our Toulouse or Garlic and Parsley are great)

2             eggs, beaten with a tbsp of water

Method:

1.      Preheat your oven to 350°F. 

2.      Lay the sheets of puff pastry out on a countertop to defrost and soften. 

3.      Remove the sausages from their casings. Spread the sausage meat from 2 sausages in a cylinder across the puff pastry, about 2 inches above the bottom of the sheet. 

4.      Brush the pastry with the egg below and above the sausage meat. Fold the bottom flap of pastry over the meat and seal it against the 2 inches of pastry above the meat. Use the tips of your fingers to “tuck” in the pastry against the sausage meat. 

5.      Use a knife to trim the remaining pastry away. Reserve for another purpose. 

6.      Using a fork, press down int the pastry to seal and crimp. 

7.      Trim the edges of the roll, then cut into individual rolls, approximately 3 inches wide. Place the sausage rolls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. 

8.      Repeat with the other sheet of pastry and sausages. Once they are all on the baking sheet brush all of the rolls with the egg wash. Place in the middle rack of the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the pastry has “puffed” and is golden brown. Remove and cool before eating.

Spatchcocking is an essential skill to have in your repertoire if you like a crispy pan-fried whole bird, or if you’re grilling the meat on the barbecue under a brick, like they do in Tuscany. I like to spatchcock the bird so the breast is boneless, but you can cheat and just butterfly the chicken, leaving the breastbone in. This alternative prevents the breast from drying out during cooking; however, the eating experience is elevated with the breastbone out.

1: Place the chicken on a work surface, breast down, legs toward you.

2: Run your knife along each side of the backbone, slowly revealing the rib cage. Separate the backbone from the thigh bone at the joint.

3: Turn the chicken around so that the legs are facing away from you. Using your fingers, locate the wishbone at the top of the breast. Use the point of your knife to loosen and remove the wishbone. Separate the backbone from the wing bone at the joint.

4: Turn the chicken around again, so the legs are facing you. Working close to the bone, slowly separate the rib cage from the breast meat. Eventually you will get to the soft cartilage at the center of the two breasts. Repeat the cutting on the other side of the breast. When you reach the soft cartilage again, gently pull the carcass away from the meat. There may be a little residual cartilage, but don’t mind that.

5: Remove the wing tips and lightly score the meat on the underside of the thigh. This will help with even-cooking.

Grilled Spatchcocked Chicken in Herb and Garlic Marinade

Serves 2-4 (one whole chicken)

Ingredients

4                            garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp                   fresh parsley, minced
1 tbsp                   rosemary, minced
1 tbsp                   chives, minced
1                            lemon’s worth of zest and juice
1 tsp                     chili flakes (optional)
1 tbsp                   Dijon mustard (optional)
2 tbsp                   olive oil
2 tsp                     salt (more depending on taste)
1 tsp                     black pepper
1                            spatchcocked chicken
4                            lemon wedges (for serving)

Method

1. Mix everything except the chicken in a large bowl. Add in the chicken and massage the marinade into the bird. Cover and place in fridge to marinate for one hour.

2. Preheat your grill to a high heat on one side, and a medium heat on the other side. Clean the grill grate well and rub oil on them using a paper towel. Place a cast iron pan on the medium side of the grill to get it hot.

3. Place the chicken skin side down on the hot side of the grill. Cover with a sheet of tin foil, then place the hot cast iron pan centered on top of the foil. Close the grill and cook the chicken without turning for 30 minutes.

4. After 30 minutes, open the grill and remove the cast iron pan and the tin foil. The meat side on the bird should be white and cooked through. Using a pair of tongs or a large metal spatula, turn the chicken over. The skin should be deep brown and crispy.

5. Transfer to a cutting board. Separate the legs from the breasts and slice the breast. Arrange on a platter and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

I know I’ve been making a big deal about grilling outdoors for this long weekend, but let’s face it: it doesn’t always work out that way. We’re still in Canada, and it could theoretically still snow at this time of year (look it up – it’s happened!). But I wanted to share a technique for cooking a steak indoors that not only produces delicious results, but it also allows the cook to relax while making sure you reach the steak’s desired internal temperature.

Reverse-Seared Picanha with Chimichurri

Recipe abridged from Cooking Meat

Serves 4

Ingredients

3                            garlic cloves, sliced in half
6                            thyme sprigs, cut in half
to taste                salt and pepper
3 Tbsp                  red wine vinegar
3 Tbsp                  olive oil
1                            picanha (aka sirloin cap) 2 to 2.5 lbs, fat cap left on, silverskin removed

For the Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups                  cilantro, leaves picked and washed
1 tsp                     granulated sugar
3 Tbsp                  olive oil
2 Tbsp                  lime juice
1 Tbsp                  red wine vinegar
½                           red onion, finely diced
2                            garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp                     grated lime zest
to taste                salt and pepper

Method

1. Place the garlic, thyme, vinegar, oil, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl and mix together.

2. Using the point of a sharp knife, score the fat side of the sirloin cap in a crosshatch pattern at 1” intervals. Place the steak in a baking dish, and season both sides liberally with salt and pepper. Rub the marinade all over the steak, and refrigerate, uncovered and fat cap facing up, for at least 2 hours.

3. An hour and a half before you want to eat, preheat the oven to 275°F. Take the steak out of the fridge and bring to room temperature. Place the steak in the oven and cook until an internal thermometer inserted into the middle of the steak reads the desired temperature (130°F for medium – usually takes about an hour. Take the steak out of the oven and set aside.

4. Place a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over high heat. Discard the garlic and thyme, and then sear the sirloin cap, fat side down, in the hot pan. Turn the steak over when golden and sear the other side. The whole process should take about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and set on a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes.

5. To make the chimichurri sauce, place the coriander in a blender and purée with sugar, oil, lime juice, and vinegar. Pour the mixture into a serving bowl and stir in the red onion, garlic, and lime zest. Season with salt and pepper.

6. To serve, slice the steak against the grain and arrange on a serving platter with the chimichurri alongside.

Some of you may have tried our Quiche, baked fresh every week. Chef Scott and his team come up with different recipes depending on the season, but the classic Quiche Lorraine is dependable and delicious. Smoked ham and Emmental cheese are natural partners, set in a savoury custard that is both light and decadent.

With Mother’s Day this weekend, I asked Chef Scott to share his recipe with you. We hope you enjoy!

Quiche Lorraine

Makes one 10” wide quiche

Ingredients

Pâte Brisée

200 gr                  flour
4 gr                       salt
102 gr                  cold butter, diced
15 ml                    cold water
1                            egg

Filling

200 gr                  smoked ham, diced
100 gr                  Emmental cheese, grated
15 gr                     chives, minced
5                            eggs, beaten
175 ml                  whole milk
150 ml                 whipping cream
4 gr                       salt
1 gr                       white pepper, ground
0.5 gr                   grated nutmeg

Method:

               For the Pastry:

1. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl, add butter and cut in until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
2. Mix the water and the egg separately in a small bowl. 
3. Add the liquid and mix into a homogenous mass. 
4. Tightly wrap mixture in cling film and refrigerate at least an hour.
5. Pre-heat oven to 400°F.
6. Roll pâte brisée into a circle 3-4 cm larger than the pie plate, 3mm thick, and place the dough in a 10” pie plate, pressing the dough into bottom edges and sides. Trim the top edge, leaving about 2 cm excess. Decoratively crimp excess dough around the edge and lightly poke the base of the dough a few times with a fork.
7. Cut a circle of parchment paper large enough to line the pie shell with 5 cm excess sticking up. Place the parchment in the pie shell and fill with dried beans or pie weight on dough. Chill up to half an hour and then bake in the preheated oven until a golden colour develops, about 15-20 minutes, removing the beans 5 minutes before the end to colour the base. Let cool.

For the Quiche:

8. Place ham on a baking sheet line with parchment paper and roast in the oven 7-10 until slightly coloured. Let cool.
9. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. 
10. In a large bowl, mix the eggs, milk and cream, season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg.
11. Distribute ham, Emmental, and chives evenly in quiche shell. Fill with custard and bake in the oven until the center of the custard is set, about 30-45 minutes.

I mentioned in yesterday’s newsletter about the value of roasting a leg of lamb in a barbecue, but I also wanted to give you a great recipe for cooking a leg of lamb in the oven. This recipe from the north of France is a long, slow braise of the leg with plenty of aromatic garlic. It’s a great recipe to start soon after breakfast, and you just need to finish it before your guests show up. C’est magnifique!

 Seven-Hour Roasted Leg of Lamb with Lots of Garlic
recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 8 to 10

 Ingredients:

1 (6–7 pounds)                 bone-in leg of lamb
to taste                               salt and pepper
1 cup + 2 Tbsp                  olive oil (divided)
4 bulbs                                garlic, split into whole, peeled cloves (30–40 cloves)
6                                           rosemary sprigs
2 cups                                 beef Stock
2 Tbsp                                 lemon juice

 Method

 1. Preheat the oven to 500°F.

2. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and rub in the 2 Tbsp of oil. Place the lamb on a roasting rack and set the roasting pan in the oven. Roast until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven, and turn down the oven temperature to 250°F.

3. In an ovenproof casserole dish just large enough to fit the leg of lamb, heat the remaining 1 cup of oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and rosemary and fry until the garlic starts to release its aroma. Place the browned lamb leg on top of the garlic, then add the stock. Bring to a simmer, cover with a lid, and place in the oven. Roast for 7 hours, or until fork tender

4. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and carefully transfer the lamb to a serving platter (it will want to fall off the bone) and cover with aluminum foil while you make the sauce.

5. Using a ladle, skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the top of the roasting juices. Discard the rosemary stems.

6. Place the casserole over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Strain the roasting juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, using the back of the ladle to push the cooked garlic through, puréeing it as you do so. Scrape the underside of the strainer, ensuring all the good bits of garlic get into the sauce. Discard the solids from the strainer. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat, season to taste, and pour into a gravy boat.

7. To serve, remove the foil from the lamb and set the garlic sauce alongside. Using a fork and knife, pull chunks of the lamb away from the bone and serve.

You don’t have to line up in the blazing heat at a RibFest to enjoy delicious pork ribs: they are easy enough to make at home. These ribs are simply dry-rubbed and basted with a juice-vinegar mixture while they roast slowly over wood smoke. I like to use a charcoal grill to cook the ribs, but a regular barbecue works just fine too.

Barbecued Side Ribs

Recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 2 to 3

Ingredients:

1 rack of side ribs

1 cup Smoky Pork Rub

1 cup wood chips

1 cup apple juice

3 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

Method:

1. To remove the membrane from the underside of the ribs, slide a paring knife under the membrane at the cut edge of one of the middle bones. Lift up a few inches of the membrane, then grasp it with a paper towel and pull the rest of the membrane away from the bones. Discard the membrane.

2. Place the ribs in a large nonreactive pan and cover them all over with the rub, using your hands to massage it right into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

3. Preheat the barbecue to 250°F. If you are using a charcoal grill, soak 1 cup of wood chips in water for 30 minutes while the barbecue is preheating. When the grill is hot, toss half of the wood chips on the coals. (Add the other half partway through the cooking time.) If using a propane grill, preheat to 250°F and smolder the soaked wood chips in a smoker box.

4. Place the ribs on the grill, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is pulling away from the rib bones. Stir the juice and vinegar together and baste the ribs every 15 minutes or so. Once the meat is falling off the bone, place the ribs on a baking tray and wrap tightly with aluminum foil to rest for 20 minutes.

5. To serve, cut the ribs between each bone, arrange on a platter, and serve!

Ham is a bit of a no-brainer. A good smoked ham is ready for the oven—all you need are some cloves and a roasting pan. The ginger beurre blanc in this recipe is an indulgence, and completely unnecessary, which makes it much more enjoyable.

Baked Ham with Ginger Beurre Blanc
recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 10 to 12

1 (about 10 pounds)       smoked ham, skin-on and bone-in
2 tbsp                                  vegetable oil
20                                        whole cloves
2 cans (355 mL)                ginger ale (divided)
1 cup                                   water
1 cup                                   white wine
3 Tbsp                                 chopped fresh ginger
4 sprigs                               thyme
2                                           bay leaves
to taste                               salt and pepper
½ cup                                  butter, cold, diced

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Have a roasting pan with an elevated roasting rack ready.

2. Using a sharp knife, score the skin of the ham, over the curved top side, in a crosshatch pattern at 2-inch intervals. Rub the scored skin with vegetable oil, then press a clove into every second “X” of the crosshatch.

3. Set the ham on the baking rack and pour 1 can of ginger ale and the water into the roasting pan. Cover the ham with aluminum foil and bake until it is hot all the way through, about 2 hours. A meat thermometer inserted in the ham should read 160°F.

4. Remove the foil and bake until the skin is dry and dark golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool on the rack.

5. While the ham is roasting, make the beurre blanc. Pour the remaining can of ginger ale into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the wine, ginger, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the liquid to 1 cup, about 5 minutes, then turn down the heat to very low. Gradually add the butter, whisking until the sauce is emulsified. Strain the beurre blanc through a fine-mesh sieve into a gravy boat.

6. To serve, slice the ham around the bone and arrange it on a platter. Set the beurre blanc alongside.

Pro-tip: save the bone to make a delicious soup!