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Spatchcocking is an essential skill to have in your repertoire if you like a crispy pan-fried whole bird, or if you’re grilling the meat on the barbecue under a brick, like they do in Tuscany. I like to spatchcock the bird so the breast is boneless, but you can cheat and just butterfly the chicken, leaving the breastbone in. This alternative prevents the breast from drying out during cooking; however, the eating experience is elevated with the breastbone out.

1: Place the chicken on a work surface, breast down, legs toward you.

2: Run your knife along each side of the backbone, slowly revealing the rib cage. Separate the backbone from the thigh bone at the joint.

3: Turn the chicken around so that the legs are facing away from you. Using your fingers, locate the wishbone at the top of the breast. Use the point of your knife to loosen and remove the wishbone. Separate the backbone from the wing bone at the joint.

4: Turn the chicken around again, so the legs are facing you. Working close to the bone, slowly separate the rib cage from the breast meat. Eventually you will get to the soft cartilage at the center of the two breasts. Repeat the cutting on the other side of the breast. When you reach the soft cartilage again, gently pull the carcass away from the meat. There may be a little residual cartilage, but don’t mind that.

5: Remove the wing tips and lightly score the meat on the underside of the thigh. This will help with even-cooking.

Grilled Spatchcocked Chicken in Herb and Garlic Marinade

Serves 2-4 (one whole chicken)

Ingredients

4                            garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp                   fresh parsley, minced
1 tbsp                   rosemary, minced
1 tbsp                   chives, minced
1                            lemon’s worth of zest and juice
1 tsp                     chili flakes (optional)
1 tbsp                   Dijon mustard (optional)
2 tbsp                   olive oil
2 tsp                     salt (more depending on taste)
1 tsp                     black pepper
1                            spatchcocked chicken
4                            lemon wedges (for serving)

Method

1. Mix everything except the chicken in a large bowl. Add in the chicken and massage the marinade into the bird. Cover and place in fridge to marinate for one hour.

2. Preheat your grill to a high heat on one side, and a medium heat on the other side. Clean the grill grate well and rub oil on them using a paper towel. Place a cast iron pan on the medium side of the grill to get it hot.

3. Place the chicken skin side down on the hot side of the grill. Cover with a sheet of tin foil, then place the hot cast iron pan centered on top of the foil. Close the grill and cook the chicken without turning for 30 minutes.

4. After 30 minutes, open the grill and remove the cast iron pan and the tin foil. The meat side on the bird should be white and cooked through. Using a pair of tongs or a large metal spatula, turn the chicken over. The skin should be deep brown and crispy.

5. Transfer to a cutting board. Separate the legs from the breasts and slice the breast. Arrange on a platter and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

I know I’ve been making a big deal about grilling outdoors for this long weekend, but let’s face it: it doesn’t always work out that way. We’re still in Canada, and it could theoretically still snow at this time of year (look it up – it’s happened!). But I wanted to share a technique for cooking a steak indoors that not only produces delicious results, but it also allows the cook to relax while making sure you reach the steak’s desired internal temperature.

Reverse-Seared Picanha with Chimichurri

Recipe abridged from Cooking Meat

Serves 4

Ingredients

3                            garlic cloves, sliced in half
6                            thyme sprigs, cut in half
to taste                salt and pepper
3 Tbsp                  red wine vinegar
3 Tbsp                  olive oil
1                            picanha (aka sirloin cap) 2 to 2.5 lbs, fat cap left on, silverskin removed

For the Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups                  cilantro, leaves picked and washed
1 tsp                     granulated sugar
3 Tbsp                  olive oil
2 Tbsp                  lime juice
1 Tbsp                  red wine vinegar
½                           red onion, finely diced
2                            garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp                     grated lime zest
to taste                salt and pepper

Method

1. Place the garlic, thyme, vinegar, oil, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl and mix together.

2. Using the point of a sharp knife, score the fat side of the sirloin cap in a crosshatch pattern at 1” intervals. Place the steak in a baking dish, and season both sides liberally with salt and pepper. Rub the marinade all over the steak, and refrigerate, uncovered and fat cap facing up, for at least 2 hours.

3. An hour and a half before you want to eat, preheat the oven to 275°F. Take the steak out of the fridge and bring to room temperature. Place the steak in the oven and cook until an internal thermometer inserted into the middle of the steak reads the desired temperature (130°F for medium – usually takes about an hour. Take the steak out of the oven and set aside.

4. Place a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over high heat. Discard the garlic and thyme, and then sear the sirloin cap, fat side down, in the hot pan. Turn the steak over when golden and sear the other side. The whole process should take about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and set on a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes.

5. To make the chimichurri sauce, place the coriander in a blender and purée with sugar, oil, lime juice, and vinegar. Pour the mixture into a serving bowl and stir in the red onion, garlic, and lime zest. Season with salt and pepper.

6. To serve, slice the steak against the grain and arrange on a serving platter with the chimichurri alongside.

Some of you may have tried our Quiche, baked fresh every week. Chef Scott and his team come up with different recipes depending on the season, but the classic Quiche Lorraine is dependable and delicious. Smoked ham and Emmental cheese are natural partners, set in a savoury custard that is both light and decadent.

With Mother’s Day this weekend, I asked Chef Scott to share his recipe with you. We hope you enjoy!

Quiche Lorraine

Makes one 10” wide quiche

Ingredients

Pâte Brisée

200 gr                  flour
4 gr                       salt
102 gr                  cold butter, diced
15 ml                    cold water
1                            egg

Filling

200 gr                  smoked ham, diced
100 gr                  Emmental cheese, grated
15 gr                     chives, minced
5                            eggs, beaten
175 ml                  whole milk
150 ml                 whipping cream
4 gr                       salt
1 gr                       white pepper, ground
0.5 gr                   grated nutmeg

Method:

               For the Pastry:

1. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl, add butter and cut in until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.
2. Mix the water and the egg separately in a small bowl. 
3. Add the liquid and mix into a homogenous mass. 
4. Tightly wrap mixture in cling film and refrigerate at least an hour.
5. Pre-heat oven to 400°F.
6. Roll pâte brisée into a circle 3-4 cm larger than the pie plate, 3mm thick, and place the dough in a 10” pie plate, pressing the dough into bottom edges and sides. Trim the top edge, leaving about 2 cm excess. Decoratively crimp excess dough around the edge and lightly poke the base of the dough a few times with a fork.
7. Cut a circle of parchment paper large enough to line the pie shell with 5 cm excess sticking up. Place the parchment in the pie shell and fill with dried beans or pie weight on dough. Chill up to half an hour and then bake in the preheated oven until a golden colour develops, about 15-20 minutes, removing the beans 5 minutes before the end to colour the base. Let cool.

For the Quiche:

8. Place ham on a baking sheet line with parchment paper and roast in the oven 7-10 until slightly coloured. Let cool.
9. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. 
10. In a large bowl, mix the eggs, milk and cream, season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg.
11. Distribute ham, Emmental, and chives evenly in quiche shell. Fill with custard and bake in the oven until the center of the custard is set, about 30-45 minutes.

I mentioned in yesterday’s newsletter about the value of roasting a leg of lamb in a barbecue, but I also wanted to give you a great recipe for cooking a leg of lamb in the oven. This recipe from the north of France is a long, slow braise of the leg with plenty of aromatic garlic. It’s a great recipe to start soon after breakfast, and you just need to finish it before your guests show up. C’est magnifique!

 Seven-Hour Roasted Leg of Lamb with Lots of Garlic
recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 8 to 10

 Ingredients:

1 (6–7 pounds)                 bone-in leg of lamb
to taste                               salt and pepper
1 cup + 2 Tbsp                  olive oil (divided)
4 bulbs                                garlic, split into whole, peeled cloves (30–40 cloves)
6                                           rosemary sprigs
2 cups                                 beef Stock
2 Tbsp                                 lemon juice

 Method

 1. Preheat the oven to 500°F.

2. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and rub in the 2 Tbsp of oil. Place the lamb on a roasting rack and set the roasting pan in the oven. Roast until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven, and turn down the oven temperature to 250°F.

3. In an ovenproof casserole dish just large enough to fit the leg of lamb, heat the remaining 1 cup of oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and rosemary and fry until the garlic starts to release its aroma. Place the browned lamb leg on top of the garlic, then add the stock. Bring to a simmer, cover with a lid, and place in the oven. Roast for 7 hours, or until fork tender

4. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and carefully transfer the lamb to a serving platter (it will want to fall off the bone) and cover with aluminum foil while you make the sauce.

5. Using a ladle, skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the top of the roasting juices. Discard the rosemary stems.

6. Place the casserole over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Strain the roasting juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, using the back of the ladle to push the cooked garlic through, puréeing it as you do so. Scrape the underside of the strainer, ensuring all the good bits of garlic get into the sauce. Discard the solids from the strainer. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat, season to taste, and pour into a gravy boat.

7. To serve, remove the foil from the lamb and set the garlic sauce alongside. Using a fork and knife, pull chunks of the lamb away from the bone and serve.

You don’t have to line up in the blazing heat at a RibFest to enjoy delicious pork ribs: they are easy enough to make at home. These ribs are simply dry-rubbed and basted with a juice-vinegar mixture while they roast slowly over wood smoke. I like to use a charcoal grill to cook the ribs, but a regular barbecue works just fine too.

Barbecued Side Ribs

Recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 2 to 3

Ingredients:

1 rack of side ribs

1 cup Smoky Pork Rub

1 cup wood chips

1 cup apple juice

3 Tbsp apple cider vinegar

Method:

1. To remove the membrane from the underside of the ribs, slide a paring knife under the membrane at the cut edge of one of the middle bones. Lift up a few inches of the membrane, then grasp it with a paper towel and pull the rest of the membrane away from the bones. Discard the membrane.

2. Place the ribs in a large nonreactive pan and cover them all over with the rub, using your hands to massage it right into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

3. Preheat the barbecue to 250°F. If you are using a charcoal grill, soak 1 cup of wood chips in water for 30 minutes while the barbecue is preheating. When the grill is hot, toss half of the wood chips on the coals. (Add the other half partway through the cooking time.) If using a propane grill, preheat to 250°F and smolder the soaked wood chips in a smoker box.

4. Place the ribs on the grill, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is pulling away from the rib bones. Stir the juice and vinegar together and baste the ribs every 15 minutes or so. Once the meat is falling off the bone, place the ribs on a baking tray and wrap tightly with aluminum foil to rest for 20 minutes.

5. To serve, cut the ribs between each bone, arrange on a platter, and serve!

Ham is a bit of a no-brainer. A good smoked ham is ready for the oven—all you need are some cloves and a roasting pan. The ginger beurre blanc in this recipe is an indulgence, and completely unnecessary, which makes it much more enjoyable.

Baked Ham with Ginger Beurre Blanc
recipe adapted from Cooking Meat

Serves 10 to 12

1 (about 10 pounds)       smoked ham, skin-on and bone-in
2 tbsp                                  vegetable oil
20                                        whole cloves
2 cans (355 mL)                ginger ale (divided)
1 cup                                   water
1 cup                                   white wine
3 Tbsp                                 chopped fresh ginger
4 sprigs                               thyme
2                                           bay leaves
to taste                               salt and pepper
½ cup                                  butter, cold, diced

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Have a roasting pan with an elevated roasting rack ready.

2. Using a sharp knife, score the skin of the ham, over the curved top side, in a crosshatch pattern at 2-inch intervals. Rub the scored skin with vegetable oil, then press a clove into every second “X” of the crosshatch.

3. Set the ham on the baking rack and pour 1 can of ginger ale and the water into the roasting pan. Cover the ham with aluminum foil and bake until it is hot all the way through, about 2 hours. A meat thermometer inserted in the ham should read 160°F.

4. Remove the foil and bake until the skin is dry and dark golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow it to cool on the rack.

5. While the ham is roasting, make the beurre blanc. Pour the remaining can of ginger ale into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the wine, ginger, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the liquid to 1 cup, about 5 minutes, then turn down the heat to very low. Gradually add the butter, whisking until the sauce is emulsified. Strain the beurre blanc through a fine-mesh sieve into a gravy boat.

6. To serve, slice the ham around the bone and arrange it on a platter. Set the beurre blanc alongside.

Pro-tip: save the bone to make a delicious soup!

Pureed nuts make a wonderful thickening agent for stews and sauces, assuming the flavour profile is desired in the final dish. In this week’s recipe, I use cashew nuts to both thicken and flavour a south-east Asian inspired curry. Ready in less than an hour, it makes for a great weeknight meal.

Coconut-Cashew Chicken Curry

Serves 8

Ingredients:

6 pc                      boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1” cubes
1 tbsp                   vegetable oil
1                            onion, diced
3                            garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp                   ginger, minced
1                            large carrot, diced
2 tbsp                   curry powder 
1 tsp                     cinnamon 
3                            potatoes, peeled and diced
1 cup                    roasted cashew nuts, pureed
1 can                    coconut milk
1 can                    chicken stock
To taste               salt and pepper
½ cup                   roasted cashew nuts, for garnish
sliced green onion or cilantro for garnish 

Method:

1.      In a saucepan over medium high heat, sauté the chicken in oil. Season with salt and pepper and stir frequently until the chicken is just cooked through.

 2.      Add the onions, garlic, and ginger, and stir well. Cook for 5 minutes until onions are softened.

 3.      Add the carrot, curry powder, and cinnamon, and stir well to incorporate. Add the can of coconut milk, then use the can to measure an equal volume of chicken stock and add to the pot. Stir well.

 4.      Bring the curry to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

 5.      Add the potatoes and the pureed cashews, stir well, and continue simmering for an additional 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the curry cool slightly before adding the whole cashews and the green onion or cilantro. Serve with steamed rice.

This is a great starting recipe for those of you who haven’t cooked a rabbit yet. The meat is lean and flavourful, and only takes an hour in aromatic liquid to tenderize. The brininess of green olives is an assertive flavour that works very well with the more neutral rabbit.

*Recipe abridged from Cooking Meat*

Braised Rabbit with Potatoes and Green Olives

Serves 3 to 4

 Ingredients

2 Tbsp                  olive oil
1                            rabbit, 3.5 to 4 lbs, cut in 6 pieces (shoulders, loin, leg)
to taste                Salt and pepper
1                            onion, finely diced
3                            garlic cloves, minced
1                            celery stalk, finely diced
1                            carrot, finely diced
6                            thyme sprigs
2                            bay leaves
1 cup                    white wine
3 cups                  Chicken Stock
4                            medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced in ½-inch-thick rounds
4                            plum tomatoes
12                         large green olives with pits
1 Tbsp                  finely chopped Italian parsley
1 Tbsp                  unsalted butter, cold, cubed

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof pot over medium heat. Season the rabbit pieces with salt and pepper, add to the pan, and brown on all sides until golden, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the rabbit to a plate and set aside.

3. Turn down the heat to medium-low, place the onions in the pan and sweat, stirring frequently, until slightly translucent. Add the garlic, celery, carrots, thyme, and bay leaves, and cook, stirring frequently, until all the vegetables have softened. Return the rabbit to the pan, add the wine, and reduce the liquid by half, about 5 minutes.

4. Pour in the stock, bring to a simmer, cover, and place in the oven for 30 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, score the tomatoes with a small “X” on the bottom end (not the core end). Fill a bowl with cold water and add a handful of ice. Bring a pot of water to boil. Carefully drop the tomatoes into the boiling water and blanch for 10 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to the ice water and allow them to cool completely. When cool, peel the tomatoes and discard the skin. Cut the flesh into quarters and discard the seeds. Set the tomatoes aside.

6. Using the side of a large flat knife, press down on each olive until it cracks, and you can get at the pit. Discard the pits and set the olives aside.

7. At the 30-minute point, add the potatoes to the pot with the rabbit, using tongs or a spoon to submerge them. Cover the pot, return it to the oven, and cook for 15 minutes.

8. At the 15-minute point, remove the pot from the oven and check the doneness of the rabbit. The meat around the legs and shoulder should have a bit of “give” from the bone. (If the joints feel too tough, cook the rabbit for another 10 minutes.) Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the rabbit and potatoes to a serving platter and arrange nicely.

9. Place the pot on the stovetop over medium-low heat, add the tomatoes and olives and bring to a strong simmer for about 5 minutes to reduce the sauce. Turn off the heat and add the parsley and butter, stirring until the sauce until velvety and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

10. To serve, pour the sauce over the rabbit and potatoes and serve immediately.

Navarin is a French dish of lamb (or mutton if you can find it), stewed with a medley of vegetables until tender. It is a traditional springtime dish, when fresh peas are available to dot the dish with pops of green: a delight after months of grey winter.

Lamb Navarin

Serves 6

Ingredients

4 tbsp                   duck fat (or olive oil), divided
3 lbs                      lamb shoulder stew
1 lbs                      lamb bones
2 tsp                     sugar, divided
to taste                salt and pepper
2 tbsp                   flour (all purpose)
1 liter                   chicken stock
2                            small tomatoes, quartered
2                            garlic cloves, crushed to break apart (not sliced)
2                            bay leaves
6                            thyme branches
12-15                    pearl onions, peeled
4                            turnips, peeled and cut into wedges
2                            carrots, peeled and cut into 1.5 inch lengths, then cut lengthwise into even wedges
1 cup                    green beans, tips removed and cut into 1.5 inch lengths 
12-15                    small “new” potatoes, peeled
1 cup                    green peas (fresh are best, but frozen will do the trick)

Method:

1)     In a heavy bottom pan over medium heat, melt 2 tbsp of the duck fat. When hot, add the lamb stew. Season with 1 tsp of sugar, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until brown all over. Drain any fat, leaving about 2 tbsp in the pot. Add the flour and mix thoroughly so the flour mixes and cooks with the fat and meat. Add the chicken stock, tomatoes, thyme, and bay leaf. There should be enough liquid to just cover the meat. If you need more liquid, add water until the meat is covered. Bring the stock to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cover the pot. Summer for one hour.

2)     While the lamb is cooking, prepare your vegetables. In a heavy bottomed pan over medium heat, melt 2 tbsp of duck fat. When hot, add the peeled onions and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown all over. Remove from pan. Add the turnips to the same pan, and season with 1 tsp of sugar, salt, and pepper, and sauté until lightly caramelized. Remove from heat and set aside.

3)  After an hour of cooking, remove the lamb stew pieces from the pot using a pair of tongs. Strain the braising liquid into a clean pot, and skim for any fat or impurities. Add the lamb back to the liquid and bring to a simmer again over a low heat for an hour.  

4)  Add the vegetables to the pot in stages, as they all cook at different times. After the first 20 minutes of the second lamb cook, add the onions, potatoes, carrots, and green beans. Simmer for 10 minutes, then add the caramelized turnips.

5)     Simmer for an additional 20 minutes, then add the green peas (if fresh – if using frozen peas add them after an additional 30 minutes). After the hour is done, remove the pot from the heat. Allow to cool for a few minutes and serve.

 Note that this recipe can be made up to three days ahead of time in the refrigerator. Reheat gently before serving.