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Soft and sweet Gorgonzola paired with bitter and charred grilled radicchio is fantastic, and in this recipe, I use it to stuff pork tenderloin. Recipe adapted from Cooking Meat.

Serves 4

2                          pork tenderloins  (approx. 12 oz each), cleaned of silverskin and excess fat
¼ cup                  soy sauce
¼ cup                  sherry vinegar
½ cup                  olive oil (divided) + more for drizzling
1 head                 radicchio, cut in 8 wedges
2 Tbsp                 sugar
½                         red onion, cut in 4 wedges
to taste                salt and pepper
½ cup                  Gorgonzola cheese
2 Tbsp                 Balsamic vinegar

 

1. Using a thin boning knife, create a hole down the center of each pork tenderloin, about a ½ inch wide, being careful not to cut through either side of the meat. Think of it like you’re cutting a hollow tube down the center of the tenderloin, like the air channel in a drinking straw. In a bowl large enough to hold the tenderloins, stir together ¼ cup of the oil, the soy sauce, and vinegar. Add the tenderloins, toss well, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours.
2. Toss the radicchio with the sugar in a separate bowl. Add just enough cold water to cover the radicchio and set aside for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towel.
3. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
4. Toss the radicchio with the remaining ¼ cup of oil and the onions. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the radicchio mixture in a single layer on the baking tray and roast until slightly golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely on the tray. Turn down the oven to 400°F
5. Place the radicchio mixture in a bowl and add the Gorgonzola and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, toss gently, and set aside.
6. Drain the marinade from the pork and pat the meat dry. Using a tablespoon, scoop radicchio stuffing into the center of the meat, generously filling each tenderloin. Drizzle along the outside of the tenderloin with oil.
7. Place a large ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Once it’s hot, add the tenderloins and brown on all sides. Transfer the pan to the oven, roast for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven and allow to rest for another 10 minutes.
8. To serve, slice the tenderloins into rounds and arrange on individual plates.

 

 

 

Cooking a steak at low temperature very slowly until it reaches the desired internal temperature and then searing it quickly over high heat to get a crust is known as reverse-searing. The benefit of the reverse-sear is that it takes a lot of the guesswork out of serving steak at the intended internal temperature. In this recipe (abridged from Cooking Meat), I use the picanha, aka sirloin cap, which has a natural fat cap, which I leave on while cooking so the rendered fat bastes the steak. If you prefer, you can remove the fat or ask your butcher to do it for you.

Serves 4-6

Steak

3                         garlic cloves, sliced in half
6                         thyme sprigs, cut in half
to taste               salt and pepper
3 Tbsp                red wine vinegar
3 Tbsp                olive oil
1                         picanha/sirloin cap, 2 to 2.5 lbs, fat cap left on, silverskin                                         removed

 Chimichurri Sauce

2 cups                cilantro, leaves picked and washed
1 tsp                   granulated sugar
3 Tbsp                olive oil
2 Tbsp                lime juice
1 Tbsp                red wine vinegar
½                        red onion, finely diced
2                         garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp                   grated lime zest
to taste               Salt and pepper

Method

1. Place the garlic, thyme, vinegar, oil, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl and mix together.
2. Using the point of a sharp knife, score the fat side of the sirloin cap in a crosshatch pattern at 1-inch intervals. Place the steak in a baking dish, and season both sides liberally with salt and pepper. Rub the marinade all over the steak, and refrigerate, uncovered and fat cap facing up, for at least 2 hours.
3. An hour and a half before you want to eat, preheat the oven to 275°F. Take the steak out of the fridge and bring to room temperature. Place the steak in the oven and cook until an internal thermometer inserted into the middle of the steak reads the desired temperature (125°F for medium rare). Take the steak out of the oven and set aside.
4. Place a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over high heat. Discard the garlic and thyme, and then sear the sirloin cap, fat side down, in the hot pan. Turn the steak over when golden, and sear the other side. The whole process should take about 1 minute per side. Remove from the pan and set on a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes.
5. To make the chimichurri sauce, place the coriander in a blender and purée with the sugar, oil, lime juice, and vinegar. Pour the mixture into a serving bowl and stir in the red onion, garlic, and lime zest. Season with salt and pepper.

6. To serve, slice the steak against the grain and arrange on a serving     platter with the chimichurri alongside.

Strata has become a very popular breakfast casserole dish, and for good reason. You can prep the dish the night before and throw it in the oven for just less than an hour before you want to eat the next day. Great for large groups, or when you just feel like indulging in a hearty and delicious breakfast! This recipe takes flavour notes from one of our favourite quiches with ham, leeks, and nutty gruyere cheese. I hope this helps you kick off a fantastic Mother’s Day this weekend!

 Serves 8

 Ingredients

8 cups                  cubed sourdough bread 
2 tbsp                   butter
2 cups                  leeks, washed and sliced into half moons
3                           garlic cloves, minced
8 slices                 ham, sliced at ¼”, then diced                     
1.5 cups               gruyere cheese, grated
9                           large eggs
2 cups                  milk
1 tsp                     salt
1 tsp                     ground mustard
¼ tsp                    ground black pepper

 Method

1. Butter a 9×13-inch casserole dish(or similar size).
2. Arrange bread in a single layer in the pan, then set pan aside.
3. In a sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and sauté until translucent (about 8-10 minutes). Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about three minutes. Finally add the ham, stir well, and cook for an additional 4 minutes. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over bread, then cover with the gruyere cheese.
4. Whisk eggs, milk, salt, ground mustard, and pepper together in a large bowl. Pour evenly over cheese. Cover tightly and refrigerate for 1 hour or overnight (up to 12-16 hours).
5. Remove casserole from the refrigerator and allow to sit out at room temperature for 15 minutes.
6. Preheat the oven to 375°F (191°C).
7. Bake casserole, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Loosely cover with aluminum foil and bake for an additional 30-35 minutes. The casserole is done when browned on the sides and puffy in the center – about 50-55 minutes in total.
8. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a few minutes before serving.

“Kapow” Chicken Legs
abridged from Cooking Meat by Peter Sanagan

Chicken legs are definitely among my top 10 foods to grill, especially when they are marinated. The sugars in the marinade char the skin a bit, and nothing says warm-weather eating more than that sweet char flavor. In this recipe, splitting the legs into three evenly sized pieces is a great way to get more marinade flavor throughout the meat (and it exposes the bone marrow in the thigh for you to suck out). When you eat these chicken legs, your mouth is like “Kapow! I wasn’t expecting that flavor punch!”

 Serves 4

4            chicken legs, skin-on and bone-in
1 cup     Japanese soy sauce
1 cup     Chinese red rice vinegar (or cider vinegar)
3            garlic cloves, minced
1 cup     sliced green onions
2 Tbsp   brown sugar
1 Tbsp   pepper
3            bay leaves

 

1. Using a strong cleaver, separate the drumstick from the thigh in between the joint, then chop the thigh bone in half using one swift commanding motion. Repeat with the remaining legs. You will end up with 12 pieces of chicken. (Alternatively, have your butcher do this for you.)
2. In a large bowl, mix together the soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, green onions, sugar, pepper, and bay leaves, and stir until well combined. Add the chicken legs to mix and coat thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate for 4 hours.
3. Preheat the barbecue to a medium-high on one side and medium on the other.
4. Place the chicken on the hotter side of the grill to sear, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to the cooler side to finish cooking, about 20 minutes. The chicken is done when a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F.
5. To serve, arrange on a platter and serve immediately.

Lamb T-bone chops, also known as lamb loin chops, are delicious little chops cut from the saddle, or short loin, of the lamb. There are two muscles at play here: the striploin and the tenderloin. Both are very tender and very tasty. This recipe is abridged from my book “Cooking Meat”.

Serves 4

Ingredients

6 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp chopped Italian parsley leaves
½ cup olive oil (divided)
12 (each about 1-inch-thick) lamb T-bone chops
Salt and pepper
2 pounds red onions, unpeeled and cut in half from north to south
1 tbsp sugar
1 tsp smoked (not spicy) paprika
3 Tbsp sliced green onions
3 Tbsp whole Italian parsley leaves
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar

 Method:

1. In a large casserole dish, mix the garlic and chopped parsley with ¼ cup of the oil until well combined. Add the chops, toss well, and season with salt and pepper. Cover, refrigerate, and allow to marinate for 4 hours.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
3. In a bowl, mix the onions with the remaining ¼ cup of oil, , sugar, paprika, and salt to taste until well coated. Arrange the onions on the baking tray, cut side down, and roast in the oven until caramelized and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Preheat the grill to high.
4. When the onions are cool enough to handle, peel and discard the skins. Cut each half onion into thick wedges and place them in a bowl. Add the green onions, parsley leaves, and vinegar, and toss well. Arrange the mixture on a serving platter.
5. Grill the chops, turning often, until lightly charred on the outside. To test for doneness, use a thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat near the bone. When it reads 145°F, the chops are cooked (they will be medium near the bone and medium-well done closer to the edge). Remove from the grill and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
6. To serve, place the chops on the bed of the roasted onions. Serve immediately.

Brisket is a tough working muscle that needs to be cooked for a long time at a low temperature. It is commonly either smoked (Texas-barbecue style), or braised, as I’ve made it here. This recipe is adapted from The Silver Spoon cookbook, a classic from New York City’s beloved kitchen supply shop. The onions provide a sweetness that works well with the richness of the brisket, as well they provide more than enough liquid to braise the tough cut of beef.

Brisket comes from the breast area of the steer and consists of two main cuts. The first cut, also called the flat, is the leaner end of the brisket and the second cut, also known as the point or the double, is much fattier, with two muscles bisected by a layer of fat. Both cuts are great, but it depends on which you prefer. The point will be juicier due to the additional fat, but the flat is leaner for those who shy away from extra fat.

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients:

5-6 lbs                 brisket (flat or point)
To taste               salt and pepper
2-3 tbsp               flour (for dusting)
4 tbsp                  vegetable oil, divided
8                          large onions, halved and sliced about ½ inch thick
3 tbsp                  tomato paste
4                          garlic cloves, chopped
2                          medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch lengths
4                          bay leaves
6                          thyme branches

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Season the brisket liberally with salt and pepper, then dust it with flour on both sides. Place a large heavy bottom roasting pan (large enough to hold your brisket) over a medium high heat. Add the oil and let it get hot. Lay the brisket in the hot pan and brown on both sides. Once browned (about 7-8 minutes per side), remove the brisket, and set aside on a plate.
3. Turn the heat down to a medium and add the onions to the roasting pan. Stir well, scraping up the fond on the bottom of the pan left from the brisket. Let the onions cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring frequently until golden brown. Turn the heat off under the pan, then place the browned brisket (and any collected juices) on top of the onions, and spread the tomato paste all over the top of the brisket. Scatter the garlic, carrots, bay leaves, and thyme around the meat. Cover tightly with a double layer of tin foil and place in the over to roast for 1.5 hours.
4. After 1.5 hours, remove the pan from the oven, and reduce the heat to 325°F. Take the brisket out (it will still be tough), and transfer to a clean cutting board. Slice the brisket against the grain at about 1/8” to ¼” thick, then place the sliced meat back into the roasting pan (the slices should be arranged to look like the original shape of the whole brisket in your pan). Cover tightly again with foil and return to the oven from another 2 to 2.5 hours, checking for tenderness after the 2-hour mark. The brisket should be fork-tender before removing it from the oven.
5. To serve, spoon the onions and vegetables into a large serving dish and lay the brisket on top, drizzling the sauce from the roast over the meat. Serve extra sauce on the side.

Gemelli, the Italian word for twins, is a spiral-shaped pasta like a tight fusilli. It works very well with meat ragus, as the sauce gets into the narrow folds of the pasta, reinforcing the overall flavour of the noodle. Braising meat in milk is a very old technique – the acidity of the milk helps break down the protein, and the fat gives the sauce a smooth mouthfeel. You should use very fresh milk, and not let it come to a hard boil, or else you risk curdling the milk. If the milk curdles though, have no fear. It will not influence the finished sauce other than looks.

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

1 ½  lbs                ground pork
1 ½ tsp                 salt, plus more to taste
½ tsp                    pepper, plus more to taste
pinch                    ground clove
pinch                    ground nutmeg
3 tbsp                   white wine
1 ½  cup               chicken stock
1 ½ cup                milk
½ lb                      oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
1 cup                    frozen peas
1 tbsp                   butter
2 tbsp                   Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, plus more to top the pasta
1 tbsp                   Italian parsley, chopped
2 cups                  gemelli pasta (or substitute with fusilli or penne rigate)

Method

1. In a work bowl, mix the ground pork with the 1 ½ tsp salt, the ½ tsp pepper, the clove, the nutmeg, and the white wine. In a saucepan over a medium heat, brown the seasoned pork, stirring constantly, for ten minutes or until the meat is slightly browned.
2. Add the stock and the milk and reduce the heat to low. Bring to a low simmer and cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until the liquid has reduced by just over half. The ragu should be saucy, not soupy or completely dried out. If the liquid evaporates too much, add in a little extra stock.
3. Add the mushrooms and the frozen peas to the ragu and simmer for an additional 5 minutes, or until the peas are completely defrosted. Turn the heat off and add the butter, Parmigiano, and parsley to the pan, stirring vigorously to emulsify. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
4. Bring a large pot with at least 2 quarts (liters) of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the gemelli and cook until al dente, or just cooked through. Drain and toss with the ragu.
5. Serve immediately, and top with a grating of Parmigiano Reggiano, if desired.

Saltimbocca is a Roman dish, traditionally made of veal cutlets draped with prosciutto and sage and fried until golden. For this recipe, I am taking boneless skinless chicken breasts and giving them the same treatment for a finished dish that is a little lighter, but still big on flavour. Serve these with a simple green salad, a pasta, or some steamed vegetables.

Serves 2-4

Ingredients

2 chicken breasts, boneless and skinless, each breast filleted in half to make four cutlets
salt and pepper to taste
8 sage leaves
4 slices of prosciutto
1 cup flour (for dredging)
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil

Method:

1. Using a mallet or the side of your knife, lightly pound the chicken cutlet so they are a uniform thickness.
2. Season each chicken cutlet with salt and pepper, going a little light on the salt (as the prosciutto will be salty enough).
3. Lay 2 leaves of sage on one side of each cutlet. Lay the prosciutto on top of the sage, covering one side of the cutlet like an eclipse (timely!).
4. Spread the flour out on a plate, and dredge each side of a cutlet, tapping off any excess flour. Set the dredged cutlet aside on a clean plate and repeat with the remaining 3 cutlets.
5. In a large pan on medium high heat, melt the butter with the oil. When the butter starts to foam, place the cutlets in, prosciutto side first, cooking until golden brown (about 3 minutes). Work in batches if the pan can only fit two cutlets at a time. Turn the cutlets over and finish the cooking (about another 3 minutes). Drain on paper towel and serve immediately.
6. Saluti!

This recipe, abridged from Cooking Meat, is based on a couple of French country recipes I’ve played with over the years. You start it right after breakfast, it cooks slowly while you go about with your day, and you finish it when your guests show up. Easy-peasy.

Serves 8 to 10

Ingredients

1 (6–7 pounds) bone-in leg of lamb, aitch bone removed (ask your butcher)
Salt and pepper
1 cup + 2 Tbsp olive oil (divided)
4 bulbs garlic, split into whole, peeled cloves (30–40 cloves)
6 rosemary sprigs
2 cups Beef Stock
2 Tbsp lemon juice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Have a roasting pan with an elevated roasting rack ready.
2. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and rub in the 2 Tbsp of oil. Place the lamb on the roasting rack and set the roasting pan in the oven. Roast until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove the lamb from the oven, and turn down the oven temperature to 250°F.
3. In an ovenproof casserole dish just large enough to fit the leg of lamb, heat the remaining 1 cup of oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and rosemary and fry until the garlic starts to release its aroma. Place the browned lamb leg on top of the garlic, then add the stock over and around the lamb. Bring to a simmer, cover with a lid, and place in the oven. Roast for 7 hours, or until fork tender.
4. Remove the casserole dish from the oven and carefully transfer the lamb to a serving platter (it will want to fall off the bone) and cover with aluminum foil while you make the sauce.
5. Using a ladle, skim off and discard as much fat as possible from the top of the roasting juices (without removing the brown juice). Discard the rosemary stems (the leaves will still be in the pot—that’s ok).
6. Place the casserole over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Strain the roasting juices through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, using the back of the ladle to push the cooked garlic through, puréeing it as you do so. Scrape the underside of the strainer, ensuring all the good bits of garlic get into the sauce. Discard the solids from the strainer. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat, season to taste, and pour into a gravy boat.
7. To serve, remove the foil from the lamb. “Pull” chunks of the lamb away from the bone, slice, and serve on a platter, setting the garlic sauce alongside.